What Kind of Kimono Did the Samurai Wear?

The historical record may not be as dramatic as what is portrayed in the movies, but in the Edo Period (1603-1867) samurai were subject to strict rules about dress code as laid out by the daimyo (lords) they served.  Their standard fare was a layering of kimono, with the heavier winter versions exchanged for the lighter summer ones a specific day that signified the change of seasons.

A samurai's attire would typically be made of silk rather than cotton or hemp, which were used more commonly by the townsfolk. The patterning was subdued and reserved - bright colors and bold patterns were avoided and considered immodest.  Women in the samurai's family also tended to keep their wardrobe understated and dignified.

Beneath the kimono, a samurai would wear a fundoshi, or loincloth, then a belted underkimono or two, depending on how cold it was that day.  Tabi socks, with a separation for big toe and the other four, were worn even then. Hemp sandals (waraji), wooden clogs (geta) or tabi boots would be worn on top.

The outerwear for samurai would be additional layers of kimono and when it rained or snowed, they wore a cape-like covering made from straw and/or used parasols coated with oil or persimmon tannin to make it water resistant.

When going into battle, samurai would eschew the kimono in favor of a two piece option.  During the first half of the Edo Period, this would be a hitatare -- basically a kimono top and wide, flowing trousers that enabled a more snug fit under his armor.  The hitatare featured their mon (family crest) or that of their daimyo. His sword and daggers would be tucked into the obi.

By the Edo Period, the kamishimo was the popular choice, and this is what is more typically portrayed in Hollywood.  The kamishimo included hakama pants (wide, pleated, skirt-like trousers) and a matching kataginu (a vest with crisp, angled peaks at the shoulders). Atop the kamishimo in cold weather the samurai would wear a haori (short kimono jacket).

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